Things to do in Provence during Autumn

Being in Provence during Autumn is magical. Nature and landscapes always change. Just for the pleasure of the eyes, for your feed instagram or for the photo album memories, where you can find the field of lavender or poppies, the deserted beach, the flamingos in number. You will no longer look at the landscapes of Provence with the same eye! Each season is a corner of paradise. 

The hike in Autumn in Provence is a treat. The heat of the summer is over, the fresh air comes to cool us during the effort. The atmosphere is calmer, more peaceful, the tourists are more discreet. The fires have retired and the massifs are all open. Not to mention the autumn and winter light, which gradually approaches, on our massifs, the orange sunsets of the promenade. For the more adventurous, the bathing of the Indian summer.

Yes, here, even if you take your pet fleece or k-way as a precaution, temperatures allow you to enjoy an intimate bath. Provence has a great diversity of walks between its calanques that extend towards the east in the direction of the French Riviera. Not forgetting the beautiful Côte Bleue of Marseille in Martigues its magnificent authentic villages of the provencal hinterland, its massifs and its chains of mountains, like the Sainte-Baume, the Garlaban, the Sainte-Victoire, the Etoile. 

For those who wish to stay around Marseille and learn more about our city, here is a perfect  getaway for the autumn, which will make you discover a space impregnated by the human activity linking Marseille to its hinterland.

The hike is 7.1 km, with a vertical drop of 544m.

The little more of the promenade. On your return, take the opportunity to visit the Castle of the Buzine, house of the cinematographies of the Mediterranean acquired by Marcel Pagnol in 1867, located in the park of 7 hills and the workshop of Jean Innoncenti, master of faience around the Old Marseille.

Click here to enhance your South of France holiday with one of our luxury villas.

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The luxury villas provence “Bastide d’Eyragues” is a superb luxury vacation rental located in the countryside but only 8 km (5 miles) outside of the charming and popular village of St. Rémy de Provence, and only about 1 km from the centre of the village of Eyragues.

Visit our website to find more provence villas.

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Top places to eat black truffles in Provence.

Fall arrives quietly in Provence. Chanterelles  (or girolles) and then cèpes (porcini) are the first fungi to appear in the markets, and they fill us with anticipation of  another fungus—tuber melanosporum—the black truffle, still to come in the winter.

The northern part of the Vaucluse region of Provence  sells over 70% of French truffles, also known as « black diamonds. » The « Perigord » truffle is a botanical designation,  and the Perigord region  itself only produces about 15% of French truffles. In fact many of the so-called « Perigord » truffles originate in Provence.  Of course you will often find truffles on many restaurant menus here.

The following restaurants and bistros are among the very best places in France to enjoy this delicacy, and  they serve delicious food through-out the year as well. Please note that the black truffle is rare, and production varies season to season. Accordingly the price  is high, and fluctuates. Prices stated are an approximation.  Truffle season begins in restaurants in early December, and ends in March, though sometimes truffle dishes are available throughout the year. Truffles are best beginning in January.

When calling from outside France, eliminate the (0). When calling from inside France on a French phone, eliminate the « +33 » but include the « 0 ».

Be sure to check the restaurant’s closing days on their website.

La Beaugravière, Mondragon, Northern Vaucluse.

La Beaugravière, with its legendary Rhône wine list and Lucullian truffle menus, is a family run place in Mondragon, a non-descript town on the N7 highway north of Orange. The restaurant is simple and needs updating but the warm welcome, extraordinary Rhône wine list and over-the-top truffle meals more than make up for it. Chef Guy Julien and his wife Tina are charming, and fun.  There is a tree-shaded terrace for good weather dining and a large, welcoming fireplace for the fall and winter. The restaurant is very popular with locals, Americans and others in the wine business, and all wine lovers.

In winter the truffle menus attract clients from all over the world. Well-known American food writer and cooking instructor Patricia Wells brings her truffle cooking classes here so that they can experience the best.  Wine critic Robert Parker writes that this is his favorite restaurant in the south of France; he ate here several times a year when he was working in the Rhône Valley.  I have also run into the U.S. Ambassador to France here; his bulky black-garbed body guards looked so out of place hovering outside the restaurant in this tiny village.

You can have just one dish with truffles, or a four course menu with a starter and main course with truffles, or an entire tasting menu with truffles for only about €180. Truffles are served in very generous portions.

Though the restaurant specializes in Rhône wines and has the best Rhône list in the world, they have a very good selection of white Burgundies since these whites are well beloved by wine connaisseurs, and the Rhône doesn’t have a huge selection of outstanding whites.  Service is a bit old-fashioned and very good. A meal here is comfortable and relaxing. The restaurant has a small hotel with 4 simple rooms, in case you are tempted to over consume.

+33 (0)4 90 40 82 54

RN7 north of Orange

84430 Mondragon

Website

Regular Menus at €32, €52 and €120; surcharge for truffles

Truffle menus approximately €120– €180, plus à la carte truffle dishes

Closed Sunday evening & Monday all day

Menus

L’Oustalet, Center of village, Gigondas

Purchased and re-decorated in 2010 by the well-known Perrin Family of Château Beaucastel, L’Oustalet is a top place to eat in the northern Vaucluse region. It has a romantic setting in a nicely restored historic house in the village center; in good weather you can enjoy lunch or dinner outside under the plane trees; everyone adores the setting in the village square. Refined cuisine, good selection of local wines, and very good, polished service are the hallmarks of L’Oustalet.

Meals are beautifully served and the tables are lovely. Wine service is excellent and a menu paired with delicious wines is available. As is often the case in Provence, there are often only two selections for each course on menu, but you can order à la carte.  The truffle dishes are exquisite but not over-the-top. The restaurant bought the wine cellar of a bankrupt restaurant with a great “cave” in Châteauneuf-du-Pape so the wine selection is stellar.

Food and wines can be pricey. This place gets excellent press, partly because it belongs to the Perrins, though the restaurant is a favorite of many locals.

+33 (0)4 90 65 85 30

Place du Village, 84190 Gigondas

Website

Truffle menu 2017: menus are €78 to €136, plus à la carte; other menus without truffles are €42 and €46.

The family has elegant rooms in the village, please see here.  They also have a small wine bar, Nez! Bar à vins!  just behind L’Oustalet, which also serves bistro food at lunch. (€19.5 starter, main, dessert.) Evenings feature wine and tapas, occasionally some special truffle treats.

Open Monday-Friday. +33 (0)4 90 28 99 59

Chez Serge, Carpentras, northern Vaucluse.

Chez Serge, well-known for truffle meals, is a very good bistro in the historic part of Carpentras. Serge (Serge Ghoukassian, the owner) offers Provencal and Italian food, and is well known for his savory pizzas and truffles in season. Serge has an excellent wine list; he was given France’s highest wine related honor–the title Sommelier of the Year in 2008 –for his in-depth knowledge of French wines.  Chez Serge is known for its friendly and relaxed service and is also a great gathering place for local winemakers. There is a €17/€19 lunch offered every day, and it is always quite delicious.

On Thursday evenings during the winter months Chez Serge offers a “Wine and Truffle” event at  €97 (including wine); the evening includes an “apèro” in the courtyard, starting at 7:30 with the featured winemaker/owner who may come from all over the Rhône Valley, followed by an excellent multi-course dinner. I have personally enjoyed many of the wine and truffle evenings, including meeting winemakers from Condrieu, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the Northern Rhône.

Check the website for these special dinners throughout the year. You can also get a great truffle omelette or truffle pasta meal at lunch or dinner for about €25; there is a €59 3-course truffle menu available at dinner. Of course Serge has a remarkable selection of wines at very reasonable prices. The food is always a very good value.

2017 Truffle Dinners

90, rue Cottier,  behind  “LA Poste”–the Post Office—in Carpentras. it can be difficult to find.

Park  at the Allée des Platanes, the big parking lot under the  plane trees; then look for the Poste

How to find

Website

+33 (0)4 90 63 21 24

Open daily, 7 days a week for lunch and dinner.

Locals’ Secret : Truffle Omelette at the Richerenches Truffle Market, Vaucluse, Northern Provence

Richerenches, in northern Provence, hosts the biggest truffle market in France; it is held on Saturday mornings, starting the third Saturday in November until the end of March. On many  of these Saturdays school associations in Richerenches  hold a « Truffle Omelette » lunch, for the amazing price of only €21 per person. It is held in a very nice, modern village meeting hall, with seating on long, communal tables, and provides a warm and welcoming atmosphere to meet the locals and enjoy the regional specialty. You can combine a visit to the market  with lunch afterwards.

Your meal will include an aperitif, 3 egg omelette with a generous 10 grams of truffle, salad, cheese, dessert, and all the Côtes du Rhône wine you can drink. Best to reserve in advance if you don’t want to be dissappointed.

I took well-known author Marjorie Williams,  of « Markets of Provence »,  to the market. She greatly enjoyed her visit here, topped off with the truffle lunch and serenaded by an oompah band. Read about her visit to the market and lunch.

Salles des Fêtes (located on the main street, next to L’Escapade cafe.)

84600  Richerenches

Reservations taken at Tourist Office :  +33 (0)4 90 28 05 34

Check the schedule for meals, and reserve early!

See DÉGUSTATION OMELETTES AUX TRUFFES 

O’Rabasse, Richerenches, Vaucluse (Northern Provence)

O’Rabasse (« rabasse » is the Provencal term for « truffle ») is a small, classy bistro located right in the epicenter of the truffle producing region—the  ancient Knights Templar village of Richerenches—which has the largest truffle market in France, and probably the largest in the world.  The young Belgian owners, installed in the village a few years ago, are full of smiles, passion and talent. This bistro is their dream, and it shows. The food is creative and very well prepared, fresh from the market, some of the best bistro food in the region. Service can be a bit casual at times but it doesn’t take away from the overall experience.

The wine list is local and well priced, with  Côtes-du-Rhône wines ranging from €20-€60 per bottle. A lunch menu with no choice  is 25 euros (3 courses) or 31 euros (3 courses plus dessert.) Evening meals, with choices, are 31 and 37 euros.

Truffle meals: a two course meal starts at €55 (week-day lunch)  and goes up to €65 and €80 for dinner. Check out the menus.

You can eat on the terrace in good weather,  or in front of the fireplace during colder months. O’Rabasse is  located inside the tiny, walled  medieval village. Park outside  the medieval village and walk in though the arched stone gate.

The restaurant received a Michelin « Bib Gourmand » in 2015, 2016 and 2017, indicating a great value–excellent food at a good price.

Website

Place de la  pompe

84600  Richerenches

+33(0)9 52  97 34 93

Closed Tuesday, Wednesday, and also Mondays in winter.

Written by Sharon Derham

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It seems that Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie just moved into their 500 hectare (1,200 acres) estate, Château Miraval, in the tiny medieval village of Correns, in the Var region of eastern France, not far from the Mediterranean.

Now comes word of a break-up! Wine lovers all over are apprehensive about the fate of the well-received wines from the estate, especially Château Miraval rosé.   (They also produce smaller amounts of white and red wines.)

Brad and Angelina’s interest in the south of France didn’t begin in Correns. Many years previously they dreamt of buying an estate in the exquisite, small village of Eygalières in Provence, very close to St-Rémy-de-Provence.  Unfortunately, the mairie (city hall) didn’t approve their plans to develop some roads on the estate, so their bid was nixed.   Neighbors did not take kindly to the thought of paparazzi and helicopters hovering permanently in the area. Though Eygalières does have many French tv and movie personalities (and now Hugh Grant) with second homes in the town, no one is of the stature of Brangelina. French celebrities participate in the life of the local village, and they are not mobbed by locals and tourists, who are used to seeing them in cafés, restaurants and the popular Friday market.

The couple leased the 35 room estate at Château Miraval as of 2008, and then purchased it in 2012 for about €35M, putting an additional €15M in improvements.  They married there in 2014. They began producing wine from the 90 acre organic vineyards with the 2012 vintage. Naysayers clearly doubted that this celebrity wine would be worth their attention but a partnership with the super star Perrin Family, who makes one of the world’s greatest wines, Château de Beaucastel, in the southern Rhône Valley, quickly proved the doubters wrong. The Côtes de Provence Rosé Miraval was listed at #84 on the Wine Spectator’s Best 100 Wines in the world in 2013, and since it was the only rosé listed that year, it was essentially the best rosé in the world, which could help justify the €16-18 price in France. The 2015 Miraval Rosé was rated 90 points by the Wine Spectator; Decanter has also praised the wine and rated the 2013 vintage 91 points.

Rumors are swirling about a sale of the estate but cannot be confirmed.  Miraval itself was purchased in the names of the 6 children, and according to partner Marc Perrin the estate is not for sale. We know that Brad Pitt is deeply interested in grape growing and winemaking, and takes part in planting and blending decisions so there is a likelihood that he may want to continue his winemaking venture.  The bottle for the 2016 vintage carries the names of Jolie-Pitt & Perrin, seemingly dispelling rumors of a sale, though labels can be redone.

Miraval was originally the home of jazz pianist and composer Jacques Loussier. Other famous artists, including Pink Floyd, Sting, and Sade have recorded there.

Article submitted by: Sharon deRham

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Book recommendation

 Markets of Provence by Marjorie R Williams

In the “Markets of Provence” Marjorie R. Williams has done a masterful and comprehensive job of explaining Provençal markets. She describes and takes you with her to the many types of markets: traditional Provençal markets; farmers’ markets; flea markets; antique markets; covered markets; craft markets; truffle markets; Christmas and santon markets.

As I private guide in Provence prior to my employment at Provence Emotional Escapes, and also the owner of a French antique shop in the Napa Valley, California, I had the great pleasure of accompanying Marjorie on many of her market visits.  So I got to experience her enthusiasm, love of markets and in-depth knowledge first hand. And yes, we had a great time discovering markets together.

Markets are presented logically, day-by-day, listing the 30 “best” markets, and then other smaller markets in lesser-known villages.  Marjorie includes tons of information on each market, which she often visited with well-known local chefs. Who knew there were so many markets in Provence?  Most days it would be hard to choose where to go; Friday and Saturday have an overwhelming choice of excellent markets. However you may prefer a small market in the hectic months of July and August, and Marjorie gives you a broad choice.

Marjorie’s book is more than a book about markets, it is a complete guide to touring with cultural and historical notes, colorful photos, maps, restaurants & chefs, and primers on goat cheese, olive oil, breads, vendors, plus market hints—when to go, where to park, where to find the all-important WC.  She adds in lots of suggestions for buying picnic foods. She recommends her favorite stands, and includes permanent shops in the towns.

She provides historical notes on villages and markets, interesting anecdotes, and a glossary of useful terms for shopping at markets. Marjorie tries to define “Provence”, not an easy task due to history, culture and the cachet attached to the word Provence. Even the lovely Cote d’Azur calls itself part of  “Provence,” though it is not. (Provence, the Alps, and the Côte d’Azur form the PACA region in southern France.)

Perhaps the best way to use the book is to pick a favorite village for a visit to the market, and afterwards find a great café for lunch—or better yet buy picnic food at the market.  In the afternoon use Marjorie’s guide to visit local historical sites.

This may be the only book you need to accompany you on your trip to Provence.  With all the information that Marjorie has provided, you can use the book to plan your daily itineraries.  The book is compact so that you can take it with you. You will have no regrets about leaving a too-heavy book at home as I did in the 80’s with Patricia Wells’ “Food Lover’s Guide to France.” You can also buy a Kindle version, though I love leafing through this little book.

In the past I purchased books on “Provence Markets” but I was disappointed, since though the books purported to cover Provence, the markets included were primarily in the Luberon, certainly a beautiful region, but too limited and not one to everyone’s taste.  Marjorie really does a superlative job of covering Provence.

Bravo, Marjorie!

If you check out Marjorie’s website and blog you will learn even more about navigating the markets in Provence.

Website

Blog

Where to buy Markets of Provence

Submitted by: Sharon deRham

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St-Rémy-de-Provence has the good fortune to have yet another excellent Italian restaurant, Fratelli, specializing in pizzas and pastas, and that just opened this past April.

Fratelli means “brothers” in Italian but here the term refers to several things: the Italian national anthem, often referred to as Fratelli d’Italia—“Brothers of Italy”—from its opening line; the “fraternity” of young people who make up the staff; the two brothers who work in the restaurant.

Fratelli has very Italian vibe—and no wonder, everyone working there is Italian.  It is fun from the moment you walk in the door.  I love the infectious spirit and joie de vivre of the Italians.  (Is it ok to use a very French term to describe Italians?) The waiters are friendly, warm, smiling and efficient. The lively ambiance encouraged me to break out my very rusty Italian so I could join in the fun a little more.  However the restaurant is still a bit disorganized–the guy who came in after me the first evening I ate here got his meal before I even got a glass of water—that will improve once they are open a little longer.  As usual the Italians are quite charming. (When I complained a little about the wait I got a free glass of Proseco and of Sicilian Nero d’Avola. Maybe because I was taking notes? )

The older space on a side street close to the center has been redone in a modern, chic look. The owner is Jean-Christophe Vigne, who is French-Italian and who has lived around St Rémy for 25 years. Formerly a dentist, Jean-Christophe dreamed of taking his clients on a “trip to Italy.” He has succeeded.  He has also included a terrace bar upstairs on the first floor, and offers some special fun evenings.

The food is delicious, everyone who goes there agrees. Wood-fired oven pizzas are very popular and are well-priced at around €12-14; there is a list of pizzas made daily, and they say if you are nice they might take special requests. There are 4-5 pastas at €11-16, a salad or two, eggplant parmesan, maybe a risotto, a charcuterie platter, a meat or fish dish from the wood burning oven. Lots of choices for vegetarians, fewer for real carnivores.  While some ingredients are chosen locally, most come from Italian producers:  Mozzarella di Bufala, Pecorino Romano, Parma hams, Mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano, Gorgonzola. There are lunch specials as well.

The wine list is all Italian, ranging in price from €17 to €48; there is one white and one red by the glass for €4.

Fratelli was very crowded on the first Sunday I went there. I went back on Tuesday at 7:30 and it filled up quite fast again. This place really seems to fill a need in the area.

Fratelli is already a local hit. I consider myself quite fortunate because the restaurant is literally around the corner, less than a 1 minute walk, from my St Rémy apartment. I am sure I will soon try everything on the menu.

Open daily, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.  but meals are served at standard French hours.

Website

Facebook

2C Rue Roger Salengro  (Across the street from Da Peppe restaurant and the St. Rémy post office.)

Rue Roger Salengo is just off the D99A, avenue Albert Gleizes, a bit west of the middle of town.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

33  (0)4 90 20 82 96

Article and photos by Sharon de Rham

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The Printemps de Châteauneuf (Springtime in Châteauneuf) is a world class wine tasting week-end held early every April in this quiet southern Rhône village.

It is still a rather unknown event though it is the best public wine gathering in the south of France. 85-90 wineries –-a virtual who’s who in Châteauneuf-du-Pape—present their wines over a Saturday and Sunday. You can taste all week-end long for the outrageously low entrance fee of €10—about $11 US, or £8 per person.  You can meet and talk to the winemakers, winery owners, and staff; you can purchase wine at winery prices. You can try an enormous variety of reds and the rare white Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  (There is no rosé in the appellation, though some wineries do make it from grapes grown outside the appellation.) Winemakers are generous in providing many of their best cuvées for tasting.

You are welcome no matter what your level; you can just go and taste, or else deepen your knowledge of terroir, of the 13 grapes used in the wines, of the use of foudres vs new oak barrels, or of the winemaker’s opinion on de-stemming or not.

If your French is limited, not to worry.  You can taste with the American sommelier wife of the owner of Bois de Boursan, or the Australian wife of the owner of Font de Michelle. Château de Beaucastel has a bi-lingual staff.  Domaine de Pégau, Domaine Jean Royer, Château la Nerthe, André Brunel’s Domaine Les Cailloux and others have English speaking owners and/or staff pouring the wines.  A lot of the young French winemakers travel in English speaking countries and welcome the opportunity to speak English.

Wine people in general are quite friendly and open which allows you make some terrific discoveries. A real highlight of the week-end is to find “hidden treasures.”  Some of my recent finds include the terrific Natalie Reynaud, winemaker at her family’s Domaine l’Abbé Dîne.  With vineyards near Château Rayas, Natalie makes exquisite white and red Châteauneuf, and top north Côtes du Rhône.

At Domaine Guiliani, Bernard and Aline Guiliani make Châteauneuf that starts at about €17 per bottle, and whose €6.50 Côtes du Rhône “Notes de Louis” is sold for €35 at a two-Michelin starred local restaurant.  The “Notes de Louis” is a wine whose grapes are planted right next to the border of Châteauneuf so it is a terrific buy.

Domaine l’Abbé Dine website

Domaine Guiliani website

The atmosphere is friendly and I loved having the opportunity to see many of my Châteauneuf friends all in one place, especially after the quiet winter season.  Wine lovers come from many parts of France and many foreign countries. As I waited in line for the doors to open, I was surprised to hear American English; a young American from San Diego drove up from Monaco for the day. I met other French, Americans, English, Swiss, Turks, and Belgians.

Each year the organizers, including famous oenologist Philippe Cambie, and affable and talented American sommelier Kelly MacAuliffe, along with local winemakers, plan several “ateliers” (tasting workshops); the cost is an additional €25-40 per person, and is well worth it. When the workshops are announced in February, I immediately register for all of them.  Mr. François Audouze, who has the largest collection of old vintages in France led the tasting of  “Old Vintages of Châteauneuf-du-Pape”; we had the enormous pleasure of tasting vintages from 1974 though 1998. He reiterated that  “one shouldn’t judge an older wine, one needs to try to understand it” by keeping an open mind. Older wines definitely do not taste like fruit driven younger wines and two bottles of older wine, even from the same vintage and cuvée will taste different. François disagrees with Robert Parker regarding his theory on the life cycle of wines but he gave lots of credit to Parker, whose influence helped to improve the quality of local wines and the local economy as well.

A specialized workshop taylor-made for wine geeks was the “To de-stem or not” workshop.   At least 90% of wines in Châteauneuf are de-stemmed, since winemakers want to produce wines that drink young, so it seems like a moot point. However some winemakers are rethinking this approach; after 2009, Isabel Ferrando of St. Préfert, one of Châteauneuf’s newest superstars, against advice of consultant Philippe Cambie, decided to leave some ripe stems in the fermentation since she thinks it will help her wines age better.

Irrefutably, and as always, the most popular atelier was the Culinary Workshop pairing Châteauneuf wines with foods.  There were three whites and five reds paired precisely to match 8 dishes prepared by Chef Olivier Scola of Ze Bistro in Aix-en-Provence.  Dominique Laporte, meilleur sommelier, commented on the matches, and winemakers were not the least bit shy about chiming in with their opinions. It seems to be the trend these days to do unorthodox pairings. Sometimes it worked beautifully, as in the case of the 2008 Domaine Pegau –a lighter vintage–paired with a slightly smoked cod with beets and  meat “jus.”  (Owner and winemaker Laurence Feraud loves this vintage with Thai food.) My favorite pairing was the 2010 red Vieux Donjon with the “Porc Noir de Bigorre” with mushrooms and small chunks of bacon.

Ze Bistro website

 Dominiqe laporte website

Outside in the courtyard there is a high quality “French Style” Food Court with purveyors coming from all over France. Get a bottle of Châteauneuf and enjoy it for lunch with Cancale oysters on the half shell, cheese plates, eggs with Ventoux black truffles, grilled organic veal, “gratinée of Royans raviolis.”  Then try some Carpentras strawberries and the exceptional chocolate from Peyrerol in Vaison-la-Romaine.

Peyrerol website

It is not too early to get on the mailing list for the 2017 tasting week-end. It will be held the week-end of April 8 and 9; registration generally starts in February.

Printemps de Châteauneuf 

Contact to sign up on email

When you are in Châteauneuf, be sure to stop by Vinadea for a tasting.

Article and photos : Sharon de Rham

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The recent warm, sunny spring days have sent me off to my local wine shop/tasting bar, l’Arbre à Vins in Vaison-la-Romaine to find some delicious rosés to drink this spring and summer.

As usual, Mathieu Schillinger, the owner, was happy to give me tastes of the 3 rosés he has open for tasting. I tried the Domaine du Mourchon, the Domaine de la Janasse, and the Domaine de la Mordorée, all of which I loved, and subsequently purchased.

The popularity of rosé is exploding, in France and elsewhere. Rosé is the only French wine whose sales are increasing in the US, up to 40% growth per year. Rosé is produced in many countries and in many regions of France but rosé from the Provence region is usually considered the best and most consistent. It is becoming more and more sophisticated to drink rosé, the quality is improving, there are more and more luxury rosés, and even though the price is going up, these are the most value driven wines in France.

The colors range from very pale, to shell pink, to onion skin, to pale orange, to darker pinks, to a very deep near-purple. There is a nuancier (color chart) to show the many different shades of Provencal rosé; there are 139 shades! But the “Rosé Research Center” experts have grouped these colors into 9 main ones. Sommeliers often use strawberry, light cherry, mango, melon, salmon, ruby pink, peach, pink grapefruit, or wood to describe the colors.

Provence rosé nuancier

The very pale rosé is trendy in France. Many young women think that the lighter color indicates less alcohol, but this is not the case.  Others think that “pale” is sophisticated.  The lighter color is due to the style of winemaking, and although it is counterintuitive, the lighter color doesn’t mean less flavor either.  Most often, but not always, the very pale rosés come from Provence, the region around the Mediterranean.  The big exception is Bandol, whose mourvèdre based rosés are both longer-lasting and intensely flavored. As we move north into the Rhône Valley, Côtes du Rhône rosés become fuller bodied and darker in color. The appellation of Tavel makes only rosé wines, usually full-bodied and flavorful and considered the “best” by many connaisseurs.

Provençal rosés are made in two main ways. In the saignée (bleeding off) method a winemaker wants to concentrate her red wine, so after a short fermentation, some of the juice is “bled” off from the tank, giving a rosé, while the red wine remaining in the tank is more concentrated.  In the “direct pressure” method, red wine grapes are harvested early, and fermented. Skins are only allowed a short time in contact with the juice and are removed when the juice is the desired color.

A good rosé is dry, juicy, bright and refreshing to the palate; it has some nice acidity and good flavors of summer fruits and flowers.  The best rosés will have some minerality and you might find some herbal flavors as well.

The grapes most often used in Provence for rosés are Cinsault, which gives the strawberry aroma; Grenache gives light cherry and other red fruit flavors and structure to the wine; Syrah for deep color, tannin and spicy dark red fruits; mourvèdre gives structure and body with flavors of dark fruits, herbs and minerals. Some rosés have a taste of bubble gum, which is not appreciated by many French although foreigners seem to like it, according to Mathieu.

Dry rosés come in different styles from a light, lively and fruity style that is best poolside or as an apéritif. “Table rosés” are more full-bodied, may have some oak aging, and are wonderful with food; some can even take the place of a red wine.

There is a third category of rosé in the south of France, which is unfortunately almost unknown outside the region. These are sweet rosés, mainly from the “Cru” rated appellation of Rasteau, but also from Beaumes-de-Venise. Rasteau is better known for is brooding red wines and red VDN (vin doux naturel), but Rasteau produces dry and sweet rosés as well.  I recently had a Domaine Combe Julière VDN Rasteau Rosé well paired with a Thai Tom Yam soup.  At €11 per bottle, this is a steal.  The wine had aromas of crushed strawberries, and other red fruits. In addition to drinking with spicy Asian dishes, the sweet rosé is a wonderful apéritif, a natural with foie gras, and I would love to try it with a strawberry shortcake or raspberry Charlotte.

These rosés are perfect partners to our Provençal cuisine, redolent of garlic, olive oil, and herbs. The lighter rosés are great with marinated red peppers, fresh goat cheese, salads, plates of charcuterie, petite friture (tiny fried smelts); the more full-bodied rosés are preferable with tartare of salmon, grilled sea bass or tuna, stuffed vegetables (“petits farcis”) or a roasted chicken.

On the high end there are some fairly new but exciting rosés.  Chêne Bleu from owner Nicole Sierra Rolet is getting a lot of attention for its rosé produced high up in the Ventoux, behind Gigondas, from organic and biodynamic grapes. The wine is perfumed, complex, with a fuller body and wonderful berry nose and good acidity. I buy this one every year!  €16.

It should not be surprising that Miraval, the “Brangelina” produced wine from Provence, is quite delicious. Everything the couple does has quality written all over it. They produce this wine in partnership with the well-known Perrin family at Château de Beaucastel. Sacha Lichine –of the famous Bordeaux Lachine family—produces the Château d’Esclans wines Rock Angel and Whispering Angel, which are sometimes considered the “best” rosés, but at a steep price of  €15 and €40. Their limited production Garrus goes for about €140.  At about €18, the Miraval seems inexpensive. Apparently the Esclans wines are quite popular with yacht owners on the Mediterranean and clubgoers in St Tropez.

 Recommended Provençal rosé wines. Best to buy a 2015 vintage. All these wines are exported. Price given is the local price in Provence.

The prestigious Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer Domaine de la Janasse makes an excellent Côtes-du-Rhône rosé for about €6 per bottle.

The “Loubié” rosé, produced by Domaine de Mourchon in Séguret has a big following in the US; early each spring they start shipments to California customers. About €8.5.

Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel, a “Cru” rosé-only appellation producing full bodied rosés.  About €14.

Chêne Bleu in the Ventoux region, produces an excellent, complex rosé priced at about 16€ per bottle.

Miraval Rosé, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, with the Perrin Family. About €18 per bottle.

Rasteau Vin Doux Natural Rosé, Ortas, Rasteau.  €9 per bottle

L’Arbre à Vins Wine Shop and Tasting Bar, Place Montfort (main square in town) / Trip Advisor

Article and photos: Sharon deRham

Cet article Rosé Wines – 50 Shades of Summer in Provence est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

Wine tasting is a different experience in France. In many countries, including the U.S., wineries are open on week-ends and this is usually the most popular time to visit.  In the Southern Rhône valley, as in all of France, this is not the case since the week-end, especially Sunday, is sacred.  Since many wineries do not have their own tasting rooms, and those that do are usually closed on week-ends, Vinadea is the place to know about. Winemakers got together to open the shop so wine lovers would have place to taste on week-ends and holidays. But it is a wonderful place to go any day of the week.

Vinadea is absolutely the best of the multiple-winery tasting rooms in Châteauneuf. I live nearby and have been going here since 2005.  Vinadea is a sales co-op of about 85 wineries in Châteauneuf, with hundreds of bottles from the very best wineries. Among others you can find Château de Beaucastel, Château la Nerthe, Domaine de la Solitude, St Préfert, Vaudieu, Marcoux, Gardine, Sénéchaux,  Beaurenard, Janasse, Saint Dominique, Clos du Caillou,  and many, many more.

Every day there are about 6-10 bottles of the rare white as well as the red Châteauneuf available for tasting—free. In addition you can purchase bottles at winery prices, unlike at many places in town. I have made some fabulous discoveries here, including the very first vintage of Domaine St. Préfert—I fell in love with it. (Or as we say here, it was a coup de coeur. ) The staff is excellent, friendly and helpful; they are quite knowledgeable about the wines sold and some speak English. For wine lovers spending time in this tasting room is like being a kid in a candy store!  So much choice! The atmosphere is very convivial, bringing together wine overs from all over the world.  Occasionally a generous visitor will purchase a bottle of their favorite wine to share with the rest of the visitors.

This is truly a “not –to-be-missed” stop in Châteauneuf.   As always it is polite to purchase a bottle.

Vinadea can ship your wine purchases within France, and to the US, except to the states of  Mass, Pennsylvania, and Utah.  (Wineries will not ship to the US because of potential competition with their importers.)  Shipping is not possible to the UK or Belgium. Price of Châteauneuf du Pape wines start at about €16 per bottle, and go up from there. There are also some Côtes du Rhône wines for sale, but not for tasting.

They are open every day of the year except Christmas, but close at lunch, around 12:30 to 1:30 or 2:00, depending on the season.

The shop is located in the center of the village.  On foot from the Tourist Office,  turn right past the Café Mule de Pape and go down the street Maréchal Foch. The shop is located at the top of the double stairway on the left side of the  street. The stairway is right next to the horrible public WC.

8 rue Maréchal Foch, Châteauneuf-du-Pape  84230

Website

[email protected]

+33 (0) 4 90 83 70 69

Written by Sharon deRham

Cet article The Best Week-end Wine Tasting in Châteauneuf-du-Pape est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

The northern Provençal village of Cairanne  will have a lot to celebrate at their 7^th annual “Marché aux Vins”  the week-end of April 30 and May 1, 2016. The village winemakers, producers of complex rich, fruit-filled red wines (white and rosé wines make up only about 5% of the production) have just been told that the wines of Cairanne will get the coveted “CRU” denomination as of the 2016 harvest; this is the highest ranking Rhône wines can attain. The winemakers have worked for 8 years to attain this level.  It was heartbreaking for some local winemakers when the change was announced; CRU wines include only the best vineyards, and some vineyards were excluded from the new appellation, and became simple “Côtes du Rhône” wines, still delicious, but in a different category.

Cairanne wines

This new “CRU” certainly means that the celebrations will be more festive this year, as Cairanne wines bask in the limelight that was formerly only the prerogative of other local wines, e.g. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, and Rasteau. The week-end will include tastings done by winemakers; tasting workshops—often led by English speaking Cairanne winemaker Bruno Boisson; cooking classes; food stands; walks in the vineyard and carriage rides.

Meet the winemakers, taste the wines, attend a specialized workshop. You don’t have to be a wine connoisseur to enjoy yourself; just come and savor the wines with everyone else.

Along with the featured Cairanne wines, you can taste the appellations of Rasteau, Sablet, Gigondas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Tavel and more and for the outrageously low fee of €5. Over 40 wineries are participating. Superstar Cairanne wineries include Domaine Roche, Domaine Marcel Richaud,  Domaine Delubac, Domaine Alary, Regis and Bruno Boisson, and many others.

Saturday, April 30: 10 am to 7 pm

Sunday, May 1: 10 am to  6 pm

€5 entry fee includes a glass

Location: Salles Communales; parking nearby

Contact: Bruno Boisson  +33 (0)6 10 29 19 33 (speaks English) [email protected]  Website

Location: in the village, just off the roundabout of the D69 as you enter the village.

Recommended Cairanne bistros

Tourne au Verre, in the village, with a lovely terrace. Three courses for €18 at lunch, €26 dinner.  30 wines by the glass.

Côteaux et Fourchettes, Restaurant and wine shop. €19, €32 and €44 menus. Outside the village at the intersection of the D8 and D975 roads. Excellent food and wine, beautiful setting and talented young chef.  2015 Gault et Millau “Young Chef” Award.

Written by: Sharon deRham

Cet article Cairanne “CRU” Rhône Wines to be celebrated at the Marché aux Vins 2016 est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.