Provence is home to the black truffle, otherwise known  as the black diamond. The black truffle season starts in November but the aromas don’t completely mature until January. Making a gourmet trip to the South of France in January is a must for any foodie. Emotional Escapes in collaboration with its partners has put together a luxury gourmet Provence experience to showcase the aroma and culture of the truffle. This luxury winter tour is an opportunity to experience the authenticity of Provence.  You won’t see many tourists and you will partake in the lifestyle like a true local yourself. 

Imagine sitting outside the local café during market day eating oysters and drinking Picpoul de Pinet at 11am.  Truffle hunting in the backwoods of the Luberon and then experiencing a truffle lunch made just for you at a Provencal farm house tucked away in paradise, is a guaranteed cultural immersion too. 

Along with the truffle countryside and the scenic backroads to get there, you’ll also experience three of Provence’s best cities: Avignon, Aix-en-Provence and Cassis.  Enjoy guided tours of the heart of these cities without the crowds of summer.  Sit along the port of Cassis eating Bouillabaisse with the winter sun reflecting on the fishing boats. Walk through the amazing art museums of Aix-en-Provence.

At the end of your day you can return to your own private and exquisite villa, Mas des Alpilles, with a large open log fire, sumptuous furnishings and 5 double ensuite bedrooms. Set in 13,000 square metres of garden bordering the Parc des Alpilles, tranquility and privacy are guaranteed.

Mas des Alpilles is within walking distance of the pretty village of Eygalières and a short drive from the delightful town of St Rémy. 

Winter in Provence has so much to offer and only a select few seize the opportunity for cultural immersion during this season.

Take advantage of the cheaper airfare and come explore more of Provence than just the summer tourist attractions. There’s another side of Provence that will capture your soul. 

Mas des Alpilles

Cet article Provençal Truffle & Wine Tour est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

Things to do in Provence during Autumn

Being in Provence during Autumn is magical. Nature and landscapes always change. Just for the pleasure of the eyes, for your feed instagram or for the photo album memories, where you can find the field of lavender or poppies, the deserted beach, the flamingos in number. You will no longer look at the landscapes of Provence with the same eye! Each season is a corner of paradise. 

The hike in Autumn in Provence is a treat. The heat of the summer is over, the fresh air comes to cool us during the effort. The atmosphere is calmer, more peaceful, the tourists are more discreet. The fires have retired and the massifs are all open. Not to mention the autumn and winter light, which gradually approaches, on our massifs, the orange sunsets of the promenade. For the more adventurous, the bathing of the Indian summer.

Yes, here, even if you take your pet fleece or k-way as a precaution, temperatures allow you to enjoy an intimate bath. Provence has a great diversity of walks between its calanques that extend towards the east in the direction of the French Riviera. Not forgetting the beautiful Côte Bleue of Marseille in Martigues its magnificent authentic villages of the provencal hinterland, its massifs and its chains of mountains, like the Sainte-Baume, the Garlaban, the Sainte-Victoire, the Etoile. 

For those who wish to stay around Marseille and learn more about our city, here is a perfect  getaway for the autumn, which will make you discover a space impregnated by the human activity linking Marseille to its hinterland.

The hike is 7.1 km, with a vertical drop of 544m.

The little more of the promenade. On your return, take the opportunity to visit the Castle of the Buzine, house of the cinematographies of the Mediterranean acquired by Marcel Pagnol in 1867, located in the park of 7 hills and the workshop of Jean Innoncenti, master of faience around the Old Marseille.

Click here to enhance your South of France holiday with one of our luxury villas.

Cet article Things to do in Provence during Autumn est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

15 Health benefits of wine,

According to Science (+6 Delicious Recipes)

In times of celebration, a wine toast may

be just one of the most awaited part by many.

As you know Provence is “the” location for wine, we have the chance in the South of France to have amazing wineries like Beaucastel, Château Simone, Miraval and many others. Find below 15 health benefits of wine that will encourage you to do a wine tour and wine tastings in Provence.

Popping open the cork while the velvety oaked aroma fills the air and flowing effervescent liquid comes out from the bottle gives excitement to everyone.

The bubbly wine is usually used to commemorate joyous occasions in one’s life as it symbolizes royalty and reflects love. But aside from taking part in celebrations, wines come with a host of important benefits.

The wine has undergone intensive studies over the years and it has been proven to be an effective elixir. Who says a man needs a fountain of youth to live a long life? Pour yourself a glass of wine from the wine cooler and bottle up some knowledge to find out the surprising benefits.

1. Drinking Wine Supports Longevity of Life

Resveratrol is a polyphenol that can be found most especially in red wines. It is a powerful antioxidant that can be found in grape skin and red grape juice. Antioxidants help the body fight off free radicals that can damage our cells and organs.

Studies show that resveratrol promotes health and longevity by increasing the activity of a protein called sirtuins. Sirtuins are responsible in protecting the body against diseases of aging.

Several studies have suggested that alcohol consumption, particularly wines, have shown health benefits that lead to longer life spans. Nonetheless, these studies emphasize that positive benefits only come with moderate consumption.

Key Takeaway: If you want to protect your body against diseases of aging, consuming a moderate amount of wine gives positive health benefits that may lead to long life…

Click here to read more

Article written by Jane Miller

Cet article 15 Health benefits of wine, According to Science est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

Top places to eat black truffles in Provence.

Fall arrives quietly in Provence. Chanterelles  (or girolles) and then cèpes (porcini) are the first fungi to appear in the markets, and they fill us with anticipation of  another fungus—tuber melanosporum—the black truffle, still to come in the winter.

The northern part of the Vaucluse region of Provence  sells over 70% of French truffles, also known as « black diamonds. » The « Perigord » truffle is a botanical designation,  and the Perigord region  itself only produces about 15% of French truffles. In fact many of the so-called « Perigord » truffles originate in Provence.  Of course you will often find truffles on many restaurant menus here.

The following restaurants and bistros are among the very best places in France to enjoy this delicacy, and  they serve delicious food through-out the year as well. Please note that the black truffle is rare, and production varies season to season. Accordingly the price  is high, and fluctuates. Prices stated are an approximation.  Truffle season begins in restaurants in early December, and ends in March, though sometimes truffle dishes are available throughout the year. Truffles are best beginning in January.

When calling from outside France, eliminate the (0). When calling from inside France on a French phone, eliminate the « +33 » but include the « 0 ».

Be sure to check the restaurant’s closing days on their website.

La Beaugravière, Mondragon, Northern Vaucluse.

La Beaugravière, with its legendary Rhône wine list and Lucullian truffle menus, is a family run place in Mondragon, a non-descript town on the N7 highway north of Orange. The restaurant is simple and needs updating but the warm welcome, extraordinary Rhône wine list and over-the-top truffle meals more than make up for it. Chef Guy Julien and his wife Tina are charming, and fun.  There is a tree-shaded terrace for good weather dining and a large, welcoming fireplace for the fall and winter. The restaurant is very popular with locals, Americans and others in the wine business, and all wine lovers.

In winter the truffle menus attract clients from all over the world. Well-known American food writer and cooking instructor Patricia Wells brings her truffle cooking classes here so that they can experience the best.  Wine critic Robert Parker writes that this is his favorite restaurant in the south of France; he ate here several times a year when he was working in the Rhône Valley.  I have also run into the U.S. Ambassador to France here; his bulky black-garbed body guards looked so out of place hovering outside the restaurant in this tiny village.

You can have just one dish with truffles, or a four course menu with a starter and main course with truffles, or an entire tasting menu with truffles for only about €180. Truffles are served in very generous portions.

Though the restaurant specializes in Rhône wines and has the best Rhône list in the world, they have a very good selection of white Burgundies since these whites are well beloved by wine connaisseurs, and the Rhône doesn’t have a huge selection of outstanding whites.  Service is a bit old-fashioned and very good. A meal here is comfortable and relaxing. The restaurant has a small hotel with 4 simple rooms, in case you are tempted to over consume.

+33 (0)4 90 40 82 54

RN7 north of Orange

84430 Mondragon

Website

Regular Menus at €32, €52 and €120; surcharge for truffles

Truffle menus approximately €120– €180, plus à la carte truffle dishes

Closed Sunday evening & Monday all day

Menus

L’Oustalet, Center of village, Gigondas

Purchased and re-decorated in 2010 by the well-known Perrin Family of Château Beaucastel, L’Oustalet is a top place to eat in the northern Vaucluse region. It has a romantic setting in a nicely restored historic house in the village center; in good weather you can enjoy lunch or dinner outside under the plane trees; everyone adores the setting in the village square. Refined cuisine, good selection of local wines, and very good, polished service are the hallmarks of L’Oustalet.

Meals are beautifully served and the tables are lovely. Wine service is excellent and a menu paired with delicious wines is available. As is often the case in Provence, there are often only two selections for each course on menu, but you can order à la carte.  The truffle dishes are exquisite but not over-the-top. The restaurant bought the wine cellar of a bankrupt restaurant with a great “cave” in Châteauneuf-du-Pape so the wine selection is stellar.

Food and wines can be pricey. This place gets excellent press, partly because it belongs to the Perrins, though the restaurant is a favorite of many locals.

+33 (0)4 90 65 85 30

Place du Village, 84190 Gigondas

Website

Truffle menu 2017: menus are €78 to €136, plus à la carte; other menus without truffles are €42 and €46.

The family has elegant rooms in the village, please see here.  They also have a small wine bar, Nez! Bar à vins!  just behind L’Oustalet, which also serves bistro food at lunch. (€19.5 starter, main, dessert.) Evenings feature wine and tapas, occasionally some special truffle treats.

Open Monday-Friday. +33 (0)4 90 28 99 59

Chez Serge, Carpentras, northern Vaucluse.

Chez Serge, well-known for truffle meals, is a very good bistro in the historic part of Carpentras. Serge (Serge Ghoukassian, the owner) offers Provencal and Italian food, and is well known for his savory pizzas and truffles in season. Serge has an excellent wine list; he was given France’s highest wine related honor–the title Sommelier of the Year in 2008 –for his in-depth knowledge of French wines.  Chez Serge is known for its friendly and relaxed service and is also a great gathering place for local winemakers. There is a €17/€19 lunch offered every day, and it is always quite delicious.

On Thursday evenings during the winter months Chez Serge offers a “Wine and Truffle” event at  €97 (including wine); the evening includes an “apèro” in the courtyard, starting at 7:30 with the featured winemaker/owner who may come from all over the Rhône Valley, followed by an excellent multi-course dinner. I have personally enjoyed many of the wine and truffle evenings, including meeting winemakers from Condrieu, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the Northern Rhône.

Check the website for these special dinners throughout the year. You can also get a great truffle omelette or truffle pasta meal at lunch or dinner for about €25; there is a €59 3-course truffle menu available at dinner. Of course Serge has a remarkable selection of wines at very reasonable prices. The food is always a very good value.

2017 Truffle Dinners

90, rue Cottier,  behind  “LA Poste”–the Post Office—in Carpentras. it can be difficult to find.

Park  at the Allée des Platanes, the big parking lot under the  plane trees; then look for the Poste

How to find

Website

+33 (0)4 90 63 21 24

Open daily, 7 days a week for lunch and dinner.

Locals’ Secret : Truffle Omelette at the Richerenches Truffle Market, Vaucluse, Northern Provence

Richerenches, in northern Provence, hosts the biggest truffle market in France; it is held on Saturday mornings, starting the third Saturday in November until the end of March. On many  of these Saturdays school associations in Richerenches  hold a « Truffle Omelette » lunch, for the amazing price of only €21 per person. It is held in a very nice, modern village meeting hall, with seating on long, communal tables, and provides a warm and welcoming atmosphere to meet the locals and enjoy the regional specialty. You can combine a visit to the market  with lunch afterwards.

Your meal will include an aperitif, 3 egg omelette with a generous 10 grams of truffle, salad, cheese, dessert, and all the Côtes du Rhône wine you can drink. Best to reserve in advance if you don’t want to be dissappointed.

I took well-known author Marjorie Williams,  of « Markets of Provence »,  to the market. She greatly enjoyed her visit here, topped off with the truffle lunch and serenaded by an oompah band. Read about her visit to the market and lunch.

Salles des Fêtes (located on the main street, next to L’Escapade cafe.)

84600  Richerenches

Reservations taken at Tourist Office :  +33 (0)4 90 28 05 34

Check the schedule for meals, and reserve early!

See DÉGUSTATION OMELETTES AUX TRUFFES 

O’Rabasse, Richerenches, Vaucluse (Northern Provence)

O’Rabasse (« rabasse » is the Provencal term for « truffle ») is a small, classy bistro located right in the epicenter of the truffle producing region—the  ancient Knights Templar village of Richerenches—which has the largest truffle market in France, and probably the largest in the world.  The young Belgian owners, installed in the village a few years ago, are full of smiles, passion and talent. This bistro is their dream, and it shows. The food is creative and very well prepared, fresh from the market, some of the best bistro food in the region. Service can be a bit casual at times but it doesn’t take away from the overall experience.

The wine list is local and well priced, with  Côtes-du-Rhône wines ranging from €20-€60 per bottle. A lunch menu with no choice  is 25 euros (3 courses) or 31 euros (3 courses plus dessert.) Evening meals, with choices, are 31 and 37 euros.

Truffle meals: a two course meal starts at €55 (week-day lunch)  and goes up to €65 and €80 for dinner. Check out the menus.

You can eat on the terrace in good weather,  or in front of the fireplace during colder months. O’Rabasse is  located inside the tiny, walled  medieval village. Park outside  the medieval village and walk in though the arched stone gate.

The restaurant received a Michelin « Bib Gourmand » in 2015, 2016 and 2017, indicating a great value–excellent food at a good price.

Website

Place de la  pompe

84600  Richerenches

+33(0)9 52  97 34 93

Closed Tuesday, Wednesday, and also Mondays in winter.

Written by Sharon Derham

Cet article Top places to eat black truffles in Provence est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

Travel Insurance: What our Provence Clients tell us.

More and more our clients ask us whether

they should purchase travel insurance, also

known as trip cancelation insurance.

Most villa rental companies and travel agencies recommend that their clients purchase this insurance.  We suggest several travel insurance companies but we do not endorse them and we have no relationship with them.

October, 2016, I spoke to a group of clients staying in one of our villas in St. Remy and they told me that they always buy travel insurance; the ones who travel a lot buy an annual policy since an annual policy does not always cost much more than a policy covering a single trip. The travelers who purchase the policies say that it is easy to file a claim and they are very happy with reimbursement policies.

Many travelers, including a good personal friend, recommend Travel Guard / AIG Travel (see here) Basically the traveler purchases a Gold, Platinum or Silver level policy; you can get an online quote. Then he/she can add on a “Cancel for any reason” policy if needed. You can get answers about policies 24 hours a day at: 800 826-4919

“Anne” cancelled three trips in one year when she had two hip replacements.  She said that even all “non refundable” payments were refunded. For medical cancellations the doctor sends the justification directly to the insurance company.

My good friend –and frequent traveler—Judy, wrote to me:

“I would recommend Travel Guard.  As said, I really do like them because they have paid, every time, on claims I have sent into them. You have to save receipts, flight receipts, etc, etc as they ask for a half dozen documents but they reimburse me for meds and MD appointment charges, etc.  They have definitely come through for me, over the years.”

Dawn Slieter, a Provence and Burgundy tour planner (Simply France with Dawn) who lives in North Carolina and with whom we work writes:

“I often refer my clients to TravelGuard. They are well known and reasonable. Not only can a policy cover trip cancellation but also any medical emergency including an Medical Air Flight back to the USA to a hospital of your choice. The policy price depends on your age and the cost of the trip. Full coverage policy can be several hundred dollars, however, if you are spending $5000 on a villa and another $1500 on airfare, it’s worth it.”

I spoke to an agent at Travel Guard just recently. She commented:

• The traveler purchases a Gold, Silver or Platinum policy; this policy covers unforeseen events: sickness, injury or death; weather; strikes; requirement to work.

• The quote is based on the state of residence, destination country, information about the trip and travelers to be covered.

• “Trip cost” may be reimbursed up to a maximum of $100,000 depending on reason for insurance claim (e.g. trip cancellation, interruption, delay, etc.) See Schedule of Benefits.

• The policy should be purchased in the state in which the traveler lives, and from where he/she plans to depart and then arrive back.

• Cost of policy: can vary by state. Cost depends on age(s) of insured, cost of trip, length of trip.

• She advises that clients read the policy carefully.

• Traveler can add on a “Cancel for any Reason” policy. The maximum refundable amount is 50%. Reasons here would include items not covered in Section II Benefits, Trip Cancellation and Interruption, e.g to take care of a sick friend or pet.

According to the Travel Guard website, there are many problems they will cover on a trip, not just health issues. These could include: cancelation due to work requirements; air or rail strikes; help with finding an English speaking physician or a pharmacy to replace important lost/stolen medications; reimbursement of contents of stolen luggage; co-ordination of evacuation for medical emergency or natural disaster.

Allianz is another reputable travel insurance company as is CSA Travel Protection.

Submitted by: Sharon deRham

Provence Emotional Escapes

Cet article Travel Insurance: What our Provence Clients tell us est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

Thanksgiving is the favorite U.S. holiday of many Americans.

It was first celebrated in 1621 by Native Americans and Pilgrims in Plymouth, Massachusetts to give thanks for the harvest from the preceding year. It is a secular holiday, celebrated on the fourth Thursday of November by all Americans, each adding their special dishes depending on their state and their cultural origin. It is the busiest travel time of the year, since everything gets packed into just the Wednesday prior to the Thursday feast plus the week-end as families and friends travel to get together for the celebration.

Americans in Provence go to great lengths to celebrate the holiday here. Popular blogger Julie Mautner of ProvencePost.com writes about Francophile Stephanie Fray’s annual Thanksgiving feast in Provence.

Preparing a large Thanksgiving feast is strenuous enough for any home cook, but cooking for 35 serious foodies in an unfamiliar kitchen in a foreign country requires supersized savoir faire.

Then again, Stephanie Fray is hardly your typical home cook. As the head of Sophie + Faulkner in Paris and Conundrum in the US, she handles strategy and communications for a wide range of clients including the annual New York Culinary Experience, a two-day event sponsored by New York magazine featuring hands-on cooking classes with 30 top chefs.

Growing up in Brooklyn and Westchester County, New York, Fray came from a family “that thought nothing of driving two hours for the perfect pizza.” Today she’s a passionate cook and the kind of food lover who, if she finds herself with a few hours to kill in Paris or elsewhere in France, thinks nothing of dropping into a Michelin three-star restaurant and grabbing a last-minute table. Chefs often come out of the kitchen to see who the long-haired American walk-in is…the one enjoying the eight-course dégustation with wines, happily alone at a two-top, texting away on her phone.

A long-time Francophile, Fray keeps an apartment in Paris and pops down to Provence any chance she gets. For the last seven years, she has rented a house at holiday time and decided to host Thanksgiving for small group of friends, both French and expat. In 2015, she chose a gorgeous mas in the village of Eygalières, loaded it up with friends for the weekend, and set out to prepare a Franco/American feast for pretty much anyone who wanted to come. Even after the first bottle of Champagne was opened around 7:30 p.m., Fray was fielding phone calls and texts, telling friends, “Of course, bring anyone you want!”

The menu? Five different hot hors d’oeuvres, two huge turkeys and two types of stuffing, homemade cranberry sauce and gravy, three veg dishes (Brussels sprouts with pistachios, speck, shallots, and lemon; sautéed cauliflower with currants; and roasted purple, fingerling, and sweet potatoes with pepper and onion), Gruyère popovers, a cheese course of six varieties and, finally, three desserts.

The first order of business was the turkey, which Fray had ordered in Provence back in September. Since turkeys in France aren’t fattened until Christmas, Fray had to find a farmer who was willing to have two big ones ready, freshly killed and plucked in time. She picked them up a few days in advance, whacked off the heads, and popped them into their brine. On that same trip, Fray had also begun sourcing wines, visiting her favorite domaines in Provence and storing bottles with friends.

Before heading back to France in mid-November, Fray packed and shipped supplies from New York: her brine mix, her favorite knife, a hand mixer, popopver pans, disposable quart containers, foil catering pans, and other disposables hard to find in Provence.

Upon arriving in Paris, she borrowed a membership card and made a beeline for Metro, a large wholesale grocery chain. There she bought extra plates, glasses, cutlery, and staples, to be driven down to Provence with friends. She also tasted her way through a large number of small batch, mostly organic labels at Table à Côté, the wine shop owned by Bruno Verjus, who also has the restaurant Table. “This was just after the Paris attacks,” Stephanie says, “and the stores were really hurting. I wanted to do as much of my shopping there as possible.”

Once she was settled in Provence (the TGV train from Paris to Avignon takes less than three hours), Fray set out to finish her shopping, a four-day treasure hunt. From markets and shops in Avignon, Cavaillon, St. Rémy, and Arles, she plucked sausages, cheeses, chocolates, Bordier butter, fresh cream, cèpes, girolles, chanterelles, fleur de sel, estate-bottled olive oils, vinegar, eggs, vegetables, fruit, spices, golden raisins, and much more. Then it was off to the boulangeries to sample breads, while fresh herbs were cut from a friend’s garden. Cranberries were ordered four days ahead from the épicerie in the town of Eygalières. She bought six types of mushrooms, five types of apples, three different potatoes, and seven different breads, just to be sure.

“When you don’t actually live somewhere,” she explains, “you don’t know what things taste like at that time of year. I wanted to sample all the fresh ingredients first.”

Fray’s old friend Gillian Duffy, a food writer for New York and Departures magazines, who lives 90 minutes away in the Var, signed on to make the desserts: deep dish apple pie, sweet potato cake topped with caramelized apples, and ginger pumpkin pie, all served with crème fraîche.

“Of course, I ran into a few problems,” Duffy reports. “First, it’s impossible to find American-style pie pans with a lip; there are lots of tart pans around, but they’re too big in diameter. I meant to bring foil pans with me from New York, but with the hurricane, it all became too much! Secondly, it’s hard to find baking soda and baking powder, at least in shops around our village in the Var. But I did find self-rising flour, which worked brilliantly as it has the leavening agent added.

“Unlike most people who buy prepared pastry in supermarkets,” Duffy continues, “I like to make my own pastry for Thanksgiving pies, combining butter and lard for a flakier crust. I finally found lard at the grocery Le Clerc, but had to ask four people where it was. Obviously lard is not common in Provence!”

For many of the French guests at the table, this was their first Thanksgiving, and certain dishes—like stuffing—were completely new. “This is the first time I eat red fruit jam with turkey,” reports local sculptor Stephane Guiran. “I like it! I liked all the different accents, too, particularly the Scottish accent of David Duffy! It was a great moment: warm atmosphere, full of life, and great food. It reminded me of family Christmas dinner. And because the story of Thanksgiving was read, it was a cultural evening, too!”

Another first-timer was St. Rémy Tourist Office president Philippe Goninet. “After watching so many ‘Merci Donnant’ (i.e. Thanksgiving)  scenes in movies, it was wonderful to be part of one!” he reports. “For the French, it’s unusual to serve all the foods at once, rather than in courses, so that was new, and we loved it. I can’t wait for this year!”

With leftover supplies and new cookware safely stashed in a friend’s Provence garage—and the same mas rented again for a week this month–Fray is already deep into planning for her 2016 feast.  Key to pulling off a traditional meal in a foreign country, she says, is to start early, ship what’s feasible, use what’s at hand, and be very willing to substitute. And most of all, hang loose. “There are always little things forgotten,” she says, “like the Parmesan meant for the roasted potatoes. But what matters is friends around the table. That’s what I care about most. I’d do this every week if I could.”

Julie has suggestions for great ways to spend your Thanksgiving in France this year, click here.

  Article submitted by: Julie Mautner

Cet article Thanksgiving in Provence est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

La Tour d’Aigues and Ansouis :Two villages in Provence

On the Route des Châteaux in the southern Luberon  

La Tour d’Aigues is a lovely medieval village in the southern Luberon, not far north of Aix-en-Provence. It has a prime spot on the Châteaux Route in the southern Luberon, along with neighboring Ansouis, Lourmarin, and Lauris. This is an area of Provence without the notoriety of St Rémy-de-Provence—whose fame partially relates to the years when Princess Caroline of Monaco lived here with her children—or the northern Luberon, whose villages of Menerbes,  Gordes, Bonnieux, and others became known worldwide through Peter Mayle’s witty novels. Nevertheless the southern Luberon is a very attractive area for travelers, loaded with everything visitors love: excellent restaurants, many Provençal markets, stunning scenery, lavender fields, beautiful villages, wineries, historical sites but with generally fewer crowds, a blessing in summer.

Truly one of the most stunning sites in the area is the Renaissance Château de la Tour d’Aigues, located right in the middle of the town of La Tour d’Aigues on the D956. It is hard to drive through the village without the facade of the château pulling you in for a visit. The massive entry gate is sculpted and has the style of a Roman triumphal arch.  (Catherine de Medicis visited in 1579, and the entry gate had to have the sides carved out to allow her carriage to pass.) The entry courtyard of the château has become an open-air theater; the château was pillaged and burned during the Revolution and was never fully restored, but it provides a great open space for entertainment. Watching a dance or musical performance on a warm summer evening is magical.

Source : vaucluseenprovence.com

The château’s ruins are open for a visit, and there is a Musée de Faience, full of beautiful 18^th century earthenware which now can be visited by appointment.

Also on the Châteaux route, Ansouis, one of “France’s most beautiful villages,” has an ancient 10^th century fortress, refurbished in subsequent centuries. The village of Ansouis, at the intersection of the D56, D37 and D135, is well restored, with neat stone walls, and has a fair number of ancient little streets, just perfect for a quiet visit.

The Château d’Ansouis, an ancient medieval fortress, was the property of the Sabran Pontevès family for over 1,000 years; this is the family who created the château and gave it is spirit.  In 2008 a couple from Aix-en-Provence, enamoured of ancient buildings, bought the château from the heirs who were constantly fighting over their family property.  (Pierre Cardin, who had been buying up property in the Luberon, lost his bid to buy this chateau.) The new owners have spared no effort or money to restore the château. They found the original decorative plaster walls beneath wall coverings, and have furnished the rooms with lovely furniture.

Though the château is privately owned, it opens for visitors in the afternoons. Visitors must take a guided visit, which is given in French.

Another interesting visit in Ansouis is the Extraordinary Museum of Georges Mazoyer. Mazoyer was a Provencal painter and diver, who gave the enormous collection of fossilized sea creatures and pre-historic fragments that he gathered in his 47 years of diving all over the world. The museum is located below the village.

L’Art Glacier, a well-known ice cream parlor with unique and delicious flavors, is located in the countryside outside Ansouis and La Tour d’Aigues; it is well worth the effort to find the shop. Enjoy the terrace overlooking the Petit Luberon while enjoying one of the dozens of unique flavors of ice cream.

For a change of pace, go a little further east of Tour d’Aigues and Ansouis and visit the well-known town of Manosque, in the Alps of Upper Provence  (Alpes-de-Hautes-Provence.) Manosque is the birthplace of the  famous  writer Jean Giono, well known for his evocative descriptions of  early 20th century life in Provence. (Giono wrote the novel upon which « The Horseman on the Roof » was based, and Marcel Pagnol based several films on Giono’s other novels.)  Be sure to visit the pretty squares and ancient gates of the city.   The Occitane company, world famous for its natural beauty products, has its factory and a museum that you can visit in Manosque.  From Pertuis either take exit 18 off the A51 autoroute, or  the more scenic D973 and D996.  Just east of Manosque is the huge Plateau of Valensole, renowned for its lavender fields—but you can only see lavender from about mid or late June to mid July.

South of Manosque are the famous « Gorges de Verdon »  the « Grand Canyon of France » ;  you can go swimming, hiking, canoeing, or just drive and enjoy the scenery. Just south of the western end of the gorge you  can watch the gliders fly out of Vinon-sur-Verdon, which has the largest gliding club and training centre in France.

Our luxury villas 

If you would like to spend some time exploring this spectacular region, we have beautiful luxury villas in the southern Luberon:  Villa Hélène in Peypin d’Aigues, Villa Domino in Cadenet, and Domaine Marderic in Ansouis.

Villa Hélène

Villa Domino

Domaine Marderic

Markets

Local outdoor Provençal markets are held in the morning in many nearby villages: La Tour d’Aigues, Cucuron, and Gordes on Tuesday; Ansouis on Sunday; Pertuis on Wednesday and Saturday; Lourmarin on Friday; Cadenet on Monday; Aix-en-Provence on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday ; Manosque on Saturday.

Recommended: Restaurants, Ice cream shop,

Winery & Garden

La Closerie, one Michelin star,

Blvd des Platanes, 84240 Ansouis

Very good food, wine and service. Lunch is a great value. Need to reserve.

L’Auberge de Tilleuls, one Michelin star,

Moulin du Pas, 84240 Grambois

Tél.: 33 (0)4 90 77 93 11

Very good French food at reasonable prices, generally good service ; terrace for summer, fireplace indoors for winter.

Le Retro, +33 (0)6 69 63 55 30

95 Rue Antoine de Tres, 84240Tour d’Aigues.

Unassuming small bistro on the main street but serving very good food, with high quality ingredients.

L’Ange Gourmand,   33 (0)4 90 07 49 02

92 Rue Antoine de Tres, 84240 Tour d’Aigues

Good, simple, and well-priced food in the center of town.

Pizza La Rosa / Chez Nino (name has changed)  +33 4 90 79 08 42

25 Rue Antoine de Tres, 84240Tour d’Aigues.

Wood burning oven pizza; eat in, take out or delivery.

L’Art Glacier, only artisan ice cream in the Provencal countryside . Click here for map

Located in “Les Hautes Terres” hameau (hamlet) between Ansouis and La Tour d’Aigues on a hilltop just off the D9 on the D135;  from Ansouis, follow the signs “L’Art Glacier” for about 5 km.

GPS 5° 30’ 35”   East   43° 44’ 32” North

Tel +33 (0)4 90 77 75 72; for hours  +33 (0)4 90 77 75 70

Domaine Val Joanis,  well known winery with 988 acre  property of vineyards and gardens.

2404 Route de Villelaure, D973, 84120 Pertuis

Free tasting, 10-19H in July and August;  spring and fall, 10-13; 14:18:30.

The gardens are open from April until October and are €3 per adult. Free admission for children 18 or under.

Article submitted by: Sharon deRham

Cet article La Tour d’Aigues and Ansouis : Two villages in Provence est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

Eating in Provence: the Ventoux Region

The Ventoux region with the magnificent Mont Ventoux towering over the area in the northern part of the Vaucluse department is a great attraction for travelers on their holidays.  This is a perfect place for hiking, biking, wine tasting, visiting Provençal markets, and enjoying the outdoors, yet it is close to the Luberon , the Alpilles and Avignon, other more touristed areas of Provence.  The Ventoux is perfect for travelers, since as it is not as well known as some other parts of Provence, it is more accessible and less crowded.  However it can be a little more difficult to find the best places to eat. Below are my favorite restaurants in this countryside, close to where I live in Provence.

In summer it is best to reserve; days open may change so be sure to check. In Provence restaurants and bistros are often small; many places will not offer a lot of choice so that the chef can concentrate on doing a few things well, and not have a lot of leftovers at the end of the day.

For the many luxury villas from Provence Emotional Escapes  available in the Ventoux region, please see here.

Restaurants in the Ventoux

Mas des Vignes, Bedoin

The terrace of the Mas des Vignes with its magnificent and dramatic views, especially at sunset, is the primary appeal of this country restaurant, hidden away on the road to Mont Ventoux.  At 600 m (1,968 ft.) elevation, you get a panoramic view of the region from the most astonishing terrace in the Vaucluse; in the evening you can watch the sun set and the stars come out.  The ambiance is romantic and peaceful, suffused with mountain air.

Chef and owner Yann de Coetlogon serves seasonal, appetizing and well prepared food. The cuisine is modern Provençal:  foie gras with a mixed salad with walnut oil; skate on pissaladière; roast veal with potato and wild mushroom gnocchi; rack of lamb with épeautre (ancient spelt) risotto;  chocolate caramel “délice” with sorbet.  The restaurant serves some excellent local wines; you will not find this choice of Ventoux wines outside the local area.

Worth the drive if you are not staying locally. The food is very good and the setting, at lunch or dinner, is fantastic.

+33 (0)4 90 65 63 91 /[email protected]

Website

Route de Mont Ventoux, D974 virage (curve) St. Esteve; 84410 Bedoin / map

July and August: open nightly, closed for lunch except Sunday

April, May, June, September: Closed Monday all day  & Tuesday  lunch

Closed Oct-March

No credit cards; French checks or cash only

Cost- €38 and €50 menus. Child’s menu 15

6 à Table, Caromb

This brand new place opened in Caromb in summer 2016 with well-known local chef/owner, Pascal Poulain, who restored a building on the site. (Sorry, the website is new and in French but you can get an idea.) The location is on the small square in Caromb just in front of the beautiful 15^th century church. You can eat on the plane tree shaded terrace, or inside in the new dining room.  Pascal is an experienced chef so the food is well prepared. The wine list has excellent, well priced local wines. 3 course meal, €32.

Previous restaurants where the chef worked hold a Michelin « Bib Gourmand, » indicating a good value meal for €32 or less.

Open daily, lunch and dinner but closed Sunday.

33 (0)490 62 37 91

6, Place Nationale, Caromb  84330

Website

Note on Caromb: it is exciting to see 2 new places open in Caromb this summer. If you are there during the day you might want to shop at the excellent shops in this village: the butcher, the bakery, or two small markets with local fruits and vegetables. All are on the main street, Cours de la Republique—the main street going through the village and are very easy to find.

Bar à Vin 156, Caromb (just around the corner from 6 à Table)

Another new place opened in Caromb this summer, though it is not a restaurant. Bar à Vin 156 is a wine bar, specializing in the local, excellent, well-priced (and somewhat unknown) Ventoux wines.  You can get salads or cheese & charcuterie plates to try with your wines. The ambiance is very friendly and the bar itself is very appealing. Some evenings in summer feature jazz performances.

In summer open daily except Sunday: 11 am to 2 pm; 6 pm to 10 pm

Facebook

156 Cours de la Republique, Caromb 84330

00 33 (0) 6 03 52 28 24

Gajulea, le Barroux

Located in the tiny village of le Barroux under the towering château and in the shadow of Mt. Ventoux,  Gajulea, open only at  dinner and Sunday lunch, offers a choice of 3 menus. They change monthly and include one at €44 (2 courses), one at €60 and one at €75;  all menus are served with extras. Menus are seasonal and reflect the rich bounty of Provence. In summer the talented chef might prepare heirloom tomato soup, tomato stuffed eggplant rolls, or a beautiful composed salad; fall might feature  fois gras with figues, cèpes, pumpkin 3 ways, rabbit or  truffles.  The wine “list”  takes the form of the open cellar behind  glass but open to the dining room, where you can peruse the bottles at length.  The interior dining room holds only 8 tables, and dining on the protected terrace provides magnificent views. Truffle menus are offered in January and February.  Many locals as well as visitors to the region enjoy the excellent, modern, Mediterranean cuisine.

Menus at €44, ‹60 and €75; €15  for children under 8 years.

Turn off the D938 towards the village; drive up the hill and look for signs; Cours Raymond Louise is on the left. Do not drive into the village.

Cours Louise Raymond;  84330 Le Barroux ( Vaucluse Provence)

Tel: +33 (0)4 90 62 36 94 / [email protected]

Website

Open: Evenings on Tues, Wed, Thurs, Fri, Sat eve and Sun noon (in July and August.)

For a quick meal at lunch or dinner, the  café  (next door to Gajulea) “Entre-Potes” offers several Provençal entrées plus épeautre risotto and steak frites.  Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday.

Website

00 33 (0)4 90 65 57 43

€16 euro menus on week-days ;  €25 market menu.

Restaurant Le Vieux Four, Crillon-le-Brave

The « Vieux Four » was formerly the  communal village baking oven in the exquisite village of Crillon-le-Brave.  A country restaurant, situated in the ancient tiny village full of 16th and 17th century honey-gold stone houses  with breathtaking views of Mont Ventoux, the Dentelles de Montmirail and the Luberon, Le Vieux Four would be a stellar add to your Provence itinerary even if the food weren’t delicious.  But it is—the restaurant offers very fresh, simply prepared and tantalyzing Provençal cuisine. In good weather you can enjoy dinner on the  beautiful terrace with a view of the magnificent surrounding countryside. You may want to sit here all evening people watching and  enjoying the vistas. The €30 menu is an excellent value. This historic village is a great place for a walk after lunch or before dinner.

Three course prix fixe meal only ; cash only.

+33 (0)4 90 12 81  39

Bas de Crillon, 84410 Crillon-le-Brave

30-35 euro menu

Closed lunch during the week, Monday, and Nov-Feb.

Winter open until 9 ; Summer open until 10

Bistrot du’O, Vaison-la-Romaine 

The Bistro du’O is without a doubt one of the top places in the region of Upper Provence. Located on the Rue du Chateau in the Medieval Village of Vaison-la-Romaine, the Bistrot  is a trendy, modern place, in an ancient building with stone walls and vaulted ceilings which create a classy, yet comfortable ambiance.  There is a very good wine list with some great choices from the region, and farther beyond.  Be sure to the try the excellent bio-dynamic wines from local Buisson winery Roche Audran.

The bistro has new owners as of June 2013 and they get excellent reviews. In June 2014 the chef won a local “Top Chef” competition that lasted over several months and took place in Châteauneuf-du-Pape (sponsored by a great winery, Château Vaudieu.)  One of the chef’s  competitors told me I should eat at Bistro Du’O—a suggestion not to be taken lightly.

The cuisine is delicious and carefully prepared.  For a recent lunch, the chef ‘s wife, Gael, told me he had ordered the fish just the night before from Brittany. He asked for the best the fishmonger had, and believe me, the fish he served (tuna and colin) was incredibly moist,  succulent and just plain delicious !

Many locals as well as tourists who go once hurry back for a second meal.

One thing I really like about this place is that though the cuisine is excellent, it is consistently excellent; there are no off days for this chef. And that, for me, is the sign of a great place, one where I want to go back to again and again knowing I will get a great meal.  There is not a huge choice, but the restaurant is small so this is understandable.  Service is very good.

At  lunch you have a choice of €21 or €24 menus.  In the evening €32 and €45 menus are available, as well as a la carte choices.

Rue du Chateau Haute Ville, 84110 Vaison (in Vaison;s Medieval village).

+33 (0)4 90 41 72 90

Closed all day Sunday and Monday.

Lunch menu (no choice) 19-24  euros; Lunch  with more choice 31 euros. Dinner 31 and 45 euros. Credit cards accepted.

Open 12-2; 19-22

Website

La Fleur Bleue, Crestet, just south of Vaison-la-Romaine

Located on the D938 running between Malaucene and Crestet, just before you arrive in  Crestet. La Fleur Bleue is owned by an English-speaking Dutch couple.  A casual, charming country place well loved by locals, there is seating outside under the trellis in summer and if the sun is too strong, the owner will lend you a hat. Quality of food is very good, and it is fresh, well-prepared and often creative; portions used to be small but seem to be getting bigger. Menu includes starter, main and dessert and if you have all three you should have enough.   Usually only one menu at lunch, for €15 euros, though it you don’t like something on the menu you can ask for something different. Dinner has a choice of three menus.  There is a good choice of the local Ventoux wines.

In the winter the inside is cozy and if you are lucky, you will sit in front of the fireplace.

Note: The must-see medieval village of Crestet is perched on a hillside, just past the Fleur Bleue on your way to Vaison.  The tiny village has no shops or commercial properties except for a tiny café open 6 months of the year.  Just across from the Loupiote pizzeria, turn up the Route de Ste Anne and drive up the road to the village. Or park next to the road and walk up.

Website 

Open: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday. Lunch and dinner:

Saturday dinner.

Popular with locals, so remember to reserve.

Lunch : €15 euros including a glass of wine

Evening has three menus available—€23, €30 and €39

GPS  44.12.457   5.06.275

 Map see here.

Auberge de la Clue, Plaisians

For a very different dining experience in Provence you will enjoy this auberge set almost in the mountains in a very tiny village. I always enjoy my meals here, especially when I can sit outside in summer. Tables with umbrellas  for about 30 are set up on the terrace facing Mont Ventoux.  The staff is  friendly and casual. This is a family operation—the teenage grandaughter has been serving the cheese course since she was about 10. I had heard that the food was copious but  I thought the €30 menu, with 4 courses plus a starter, was just the right amount.

The meal starts with a « cadeau »–a gift– which is  « fromage de tête »–head cheese—made of pig’s head and lamb tongue (but no brain.)  This is essentially self serve, so unless you are starving, I advise you to take a small amount.  The first course has a choice of 8 items: e.g.  goat cheese & walnut salad, goat cheese ravioli ; aumôniere d’épeautre (spelt crepe) with lamb sweetbreads ;  salade of gizzards et smoked duck breast ; seafood (oysters, shrimp ; Caillete (Provençal pork and spinach meatball); foie gras with apricots; charcuterie platter.

The choice of  5 items for main course (plat) includes lamb from the Alps, duck breast with  porcini mushrooms, monkfish, pieds et paquets, or rabbit with tapenade.

There is a great choice of desserts, including home made strawberry tarte, apricot tarte with apricot sorbet, raspberry clafouti, crème brulée and more.

The wine list is not very well thought out but  wines by the glass at €4 euros were fine.

The restaurant is a holder of a Michelin « Bib Gourmand, » indicating a good value meal for €32 or less.

Note 1 : A « clue »  is an opening formed by 2 huge rocks  in the mountain, and  looks a little like a keyhole. You drive through the « clue » to get into the  village.

Note 2 : Plaisians had a camp of resistants (« maquisards FTPF ») during the time of the toughest fighting against the Nazis, in 1943-44.

 Place de l’Eglise
26170 Plaisians
Tel: 00 33 (0)4 75 28 01 17 / [email protected]

See a map « plan d’access » here.  GPS : 44.2295, 5.31749

Submitted by : Sharon deRham

Cet article Mont Ventoux – Eating in Provence: the Ventoux Region est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

Book recommendation

 Markets of Provence by Marjorie R Williams

In the “Markets of Provence” Marjorie R. Williams has done a masterful and comprehensive job of explaining Provençal markets. She describes and takes you with her to the many types of markets: traditional Provençal markets; farmers’ markets; flea markets; antique markets; covered markets; craft markets; truffle markets; Christmas and santon markets.

As I private guide in Provence prior to my employment at Provence Emotional Escapes, and also the owner of a French antique shop in the Napa Valley, California, I had the great pleasure of accompanying Marjorie on many of her market visits.  So I got to experience her enthusiasm, love of markets and in-depth knowledge first hand. And yes, we had a great time discovering markets together.

Markets are presented logically, day-by-day, listing the 30 “best” markets, and then other smaller markets in lesser-known villages.  Marjorie includes tons of information on each market, which she often visited with well-known local chefs. Who knew there were so many markets in Provence?  Most days it would be hard to choose where to go; Friday and Saturday have an overwhelming choice of excellent markets. However you may prefer a small market in the hectic months of July and August, and Marjorie gives you a broad choice.

Marjorie’s book is more than a book about markets, it is a complete guide to touring with cultural and historical notes, colorful photos, maps, restaurants & chefs, and primers on goat cheese, olive oil, breads, vendors, plus market hints—when to go, where to park, where to find the all-important WC.  She adds in lots of suggestions for buying picnic foods. She recommends her favorite stands, and includes permanent shops in the towns.

She provides historical notes on villages and markets, interesting anecdotes, and a glossary of useful terms for shopping at markets. Marjorie tries to define “Provence”, not an easy task due to history, culture and the cachet attached to the word Provence. Even the lovely Cote d’Azur calls itself part of  “Provence,” though it is not. (Provence, the Alps, and the Côte d’Azur form the PACA region in southern France.)

Perhaps the best way to use the book is to pick a favorite village for a visit to the market, and afterwards find a great café for lunch—or better yet buy picnic food at the market.  In the afternoon use Marjorie’s guide to visit local historical sites.

This may be the only book you need to accompany you on your trip to Provence.  With all the information that Marjorie has provided, you can use the book to plan your daily itineraries.  The book is compact so that you can take it with you. You will have no regrets about leaving a too-heavy book at home as I did in the 80’s with Patricia Wells’ “Food Lover’s Guide to France.” You can also buy a Kindle version, though I love leafing through this little book.

In the past I purchased books on “Provence Markets” but I was disappointed, since though the books purported to cover Provence, the markets included were primarily in the Luberon, certainly a beautiful region, but too limited and not one to everyone’s taste.  Marjorie really does a superlative job of covering Provence.

Bravo, Marjorie!

If you check out Marjorie’s website and blog you will learn even more about navigating the markets in Provence.

Website

Blog

Where to buy Markets of Provence

Submitted by: Sharon deRham

Cet article Markets of Provence by Marjorie R Williams est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.

St-Rémy-de-Provence has the good fortune to have yet another excellent Italian restaurant, Fratelli, specializing in pizzas and pastas, and that just opened this past April.

Fratelli means “brothers” in Italian but here the term refers to several things: the Italian national anthem, often referred to as Fratelli d’Italia—“Brothers of Italy”—from its opening line; the “fraternity” of young people who make up the staff; the two brothers who work in the restaurant.

Fratelli has very Italian vibe—and no wonder, everyone working there is Italian.  It is fun from the moment you walk in the door.  I love the infectious spirit and joie de vivre of the Italians.  (Is it ok to use a very French term to describe Italians?) The waiters are friendly, warm, smiling and efficient. The lively ambiance encouraged me to break out my very rusty Italian so I could join in the fun a little more.  However the restaurant is still a bit disorganized–the guy who came in after me the first evening I ate here got his meal before I even got a glass of water—that will improve once they are open a little longer.  As usual the Italians are quite charming. (When I complained a little about the wait I got a free glass of Proseco and of Sicilian Nero d’Avola. Maybe because I was taking notes? )

The older space on a side street close to the center has been redone in a modern, chic look. The owner is Jean-Christophe Vigne, who is French-Italian and who has lived around St Rémy for 25 years. Formerly a dentist, Jean-Christophe dreamed of taking his clients on a “trip to Italy.” He has succeeded.  He has also included a terrace bar upstairs on the first floor, and offers some special fun evenings.

The food is delicious, everyone who goes there agrees. Wood-fired oven pizzas are very popular and are well-priced at around €12-14; there is a list of pizzas made daily, and they say if you are nice they might take special requests. There are 4-5 pastas at €11-16, a salad or two, eggplant parmesan, maybe a risotto, a charcuterie platter, a meat or fish dish from the wood burning oven. Lots of choices for vegetarians, fewer for real carnivores.  While some ingredients are chosen locally, most come from Italian producers:  Mozzarella di Bufala, Pecorino Romano, Parma hams, Mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano, Gorgonzola. There are lunch specials as well.

The wine list is all Italian, ranging in price from €17 to €48; there is one white and one red by the glass for €4.

Fratelli was very crowded on the first Sunday I went there. I went back on Tuesday at 7:30 and it filled up quite fast again. This place really seems to fill a need in the area.

Fratelli is already a local hit. I consider myself quite fortunate because the restaurant is literally around the corner, less than a 1 minute walk, from my St Rémy apartment. I am sure I will soon try everything on the menu.

Open daily, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.  but meals are served at standard French hours.

Website

Facebook

2C Rue Roger Salengro  (Across the street from Da Peppe restaurant and the St. Rémy post office.)

Rue Roger Salengo is just off the D99A, avenue Albert Gleizes, a bit west of the middle of town.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

33  (0)4 90 20 82 96

Article and photos by Sharon de Rham

Cet article Fratelli – Stylish, fun and delicious new Italian restaurant in St-Rémy-de-Provence est apparu en premier sur Provence Emotional Escapes Blog.